5 Days Exploring the Pembrokeshire Coast

It’s easy to day dream of far flung holiday destinations, I regularly romanticise about flying to the sunny beaches of Mexico, to hiking sand dunes in the Middle East, or immersing yourself in the epic tastes of South East Asia… What I often overlook is the beauty that’s closer to home.

My partner Andy and I decided after many trips in rented campervans, to finally purchase our own one last year. This was our first extended trip in our new home on wheels, and it was one for the memories.

Being from Scotland, I am often outraged at Londoners who tell me they have never visited Scotland, but I figure that me never having been to Wales is equally as ridiculous. I’d heard rumours of the Welsh coastline being as dramatic and wild as the rugged shores of North West Scotland, and after a deep dive on the internet - I was SOLD.

We packed up Nesta (our newly named campervan) and headed to the Pembrokeshire coast for 4 nights of exploring - and here’s what we found.

If you're planning a road trip around Wales, especially the stunning Pembrokeshire coast, this 5-day itinerary has you covered. Here's everything you need to plan your own epic Wales campervan adventure!

Why Road Trip Wales in a Campervan?

Wild, lush green landscapes
Loads of coastal driving roads with epic views
Variety in scenery: rolling green hills, crystal blue waters, wild hiking, mountainous areas, rugged coastlines, Wales has it all!
Easy, manageable distances to cover each day allowing for maximum exploring time
Friendly, locally run campsites EVERYWHERE
We went in April = Spring time = the weather was PERFECT, but it is the UK so keep in mind this will always be a little unpredictable

Our 5-Day Wales Campervan Itinerary
(Day-by-Day)

Day 1: Settling In – London to Pontneddfechan

Drive time: ~4.5 hrs
Where we stayed: Pencelli Castle Campsite (or options nearby) Use app Park4Night to see all your available options as input by fellow van campers!
What we did: Not much — set up, relax, get used to the van life. We left London in the afternoon and so after a big drive, we were exhausted and wanted to eat + crash. We picked up a fresh loaf of crunchy bread + plenty of dips… and sat outside the van enjoying some open sandwiches piled high of tastiness. Something about having everything you need in one tiny space is unbelievably liberating, like the lost weight of all your belongings literally lifts a weight off your shoulders. We had a big hike planned the next morning so this was the ideal start to our adventure.

Day 2: Chasing Waterfalls + a Feast at Cresselly Arms

Morning: Hike the Four Waterfalls Walk (highlight: walk behind Sgwd-yr-Eira). This circular loop is 10km and takes the best part of 3 hours to complete. Beginning the trail lined by towering trees + a steep decline - we were ready to soak up all the countryside energy + fresh air. The walk takes you past 4 different falls, with various routes to climb down stairs, view from platforms, or in the last one’s case - walk underneath the waterfall itself. As you approach, the thundering sound of the water pelting the concrete is thrilling, and sitting on the perch of rock behind it mesmerising - a unique experience I won’t forget.
Afternoon: Drive to Stackpole (~2.5 hrs)
Dinner: Visiting the FEAST pop-up at the Cresselly Arms. THIS had come recommended, and anyone who knows Andy and I will know that food is a hugely important part of our trip - often the reason or inspiration behind why we go where we do. FEAST is a mobile BBQ popup with smoking meats, potatoes cooked in the dripping juices, and chargrilled veggies. All whacked onto a tray to enjoy sat by the river on one of the many pub benches with sprawling countryside views. This pop up moves around - so be sure to check their Instagram to visit where they’re cooking up a storm.
Stay: St Petrox Campsite. Off the beaten track + plenty of room, no need to pre-book.

Day 3: Dream Beaches – Barafundle Bay + Freshwater West

Morning: Walk Stackpole → Barafundle Bay → Broad Haven South → Lily Ponds (10km circular hike)

One of those experiences where you literally can’t stop popping your camera out in desperate attempt to capture some of the natural beauty surrounding you. I couldn’t believe we were in the UK… If you don’t make this 10km circular route a part of your Wales trip, you’ve got it wrong!
Lunch: Stackpole Inn - maybe the perfect pub lunch? Crisp battered fresh fish + hot chunky fries, plus a skate wing with caper butter, green veg + salad. Unbelievably fresh, unbelievably delicious.
Afternoon: Our plan was to explore Freshwater West, what ended up happening was a post-lunch nap on the beach - no regrets

Dinner: Cook in the van - one of the great pleasures of van life is having everything at your disposal, no matter where you are. And of course having your co-pilot as an excellent chef. Andy whipped up a DELICIOUS pasta with all the fresh wild garlic from our walk, and we enjoyed it as the sun slowly slid over the hills and out of sight.
It was, as it sounds, a delightful day.

Stay: Gupton Farm Campsite - plenty of space, flat land to sleep, farm shop + fire pits for rental. 10/10

Day 4: Lobster Rolls + Cliff Walks to Porthgain

Morning: Chill morning (essential in road trips!) The joy of opening your book, brewing fresh coffee + listening to the sounds of nature is maybe my favourite moment of the day when I’m away.

Lunch: Cafe Mor or Old Point House. Cafe Mor is a large van/pop-up that moves around and serves fresh crab rolls by the beach. We were SO excited, only to get there and find it closed. When we arrived, we noted the sign that said “open Saturdays with live music”, which would’ve been a HOOT, so definitely check their website for updates on location and opening times. Instead, we had lunch at The Old Point House next door, which was equally as spectacular. Being on the ocean means they get bucketloads of fresh seafood daily.
The lobster rarebit was one of those bites of food I don’t think I’ll ever forget… fresh, rich, bubbling cheese + piled high with fresh lobster! We also shared a crab roll, equally as excellent.

Afternoon walk: Visit the Blue Lagoon (Abereiddy) - take your bathers and enjoy a swim in this incredible lagoon made from an old quarry… you can then do the coastal walk to Porthgain to enjoy evening food + drinks. I’d recommend an early dinner so you can walk back before it gets dark!

Dinner: Pints at Sloop Inn (cosy, Welsh, traditional vibes) and seafood at The Shed - more delicious gastropub seafood.
Stay: Hillfort Camping (pictured at the end of this post!) Have a morning swim down at Abermawr beach, and grab a bacon buttie / brekkie at Melin Tregwynt - an old and still fully functioning cotton mill with a great little cafe.

Day 5: Mountain Vibes + Heading Home

Morning hike: Foel Cwm Cerwyn… the highest peak in Pembrokeshire. This mountain hike definitely felt lesser-known as we were the only people there, and it did provide epic views in all directions.

Final Evening: Llys Meddyg in Newport (gastro treat before the drive home). We sadly didn’t get to squeeze this in - but it came highly recommended and looks absolutely amazing.

Drive back: London-bound. What a TRIP!

Campsites We Loved (And Why)

St Petrox Campsite: No need to book, flat land + proximity to Stackpole.
Gupton Farm Campsite: Great facilities + location near stunning beach.
Hillfort Camping: Best views + hilariously charismatic owner John!

Foodie Highlights of the Trip

Stackpole Inn - This is the kind of place you dream of stumbling upon on a countryside adventure. The exterior is covered in climbing green vines, the atmosphere welcoming + warm, and the seafood as fresh as it comes!
The Old Point House - The lobster rarebit, full stop! Don’t miss this, you won’t regret it.
Cafe Mor lobster rolls (check their Instagram to confirm location + opening days)
The Shed in Porthgain - buzzy atmosphere, full of life and locals, known for quality fish + chips but has lots of healthier seafood options. The bouillabaisse seafood soup was a highlight for us.
Llys Meddyg gastropub - Welsh fare in a modern menu.
Cresselly Arms FEAST pop-up (check their Instagram to confirm location) - for the meat lovers.

Best Hikes + Walks We Did

Four Waterfalls Walk
- Time: 2/5-3 hours round trip
- Distance: 10KM
- Difficulty: Medium - hard only due to lots of steps up + down
- Access: Park at Gwaun Hepste car park
- Highlights: Incredible views. Walk under a waterfall - unique experience
Stackpole Quay Circular (Barafundle Bay etc)
- Time: 3 hours round trip
- Distance: 10KM
- Difficulty: Easy - all flat
- Access: Park at Stackpole Quay
- Highlights: Vast scenery - ocean, greenery, mountains, river, lily ponds + more
Blue Lagoon to Porthgain
- Time: 20 minutes
- Distance: 2km
- Difficulty: Easy
- Highlights: Coastal Views
Foel Cwm Cerwyn Circular
- Time: 2 hours round trip
- Distance: 5km
- Difficulty: Medium - steeper
- Highlights: Panoramic views, more of a mountainous hike

Final Thoughts: Would We Road Trip Wales Again?

Travelling so close to home is a luxury most of us overlook or forget about, and I believe it’s a beautiful reminder of the beauty that surrounds us. I would absolutely visit Wales and Pembrokeshire again, as truly it felt like we only scratched the surface. There were so many more walks, waterfalls, hills + beaches to see… I’m sure we’ll be back for more.

The Pembrokeshire coastline is a uniquely stunning part of the UK - with vibrant colours of blue + green surrounding you. Best plan for when you think the weather will be on your side, although of course no guarantee-ing that.

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Wales Campervan Road Trip